No pickers, no espresso: How Covid threatens Colombia’s harvest


By Manuel Rueda
Antioquia, Colombia

Gloria Piedrahita picks coffee at the Santa Isabel estate on 20 November 2020

picture copyrightSimon Echavarria

picture captionGloria Piedrahita is new to espresso choosing – she began after her retailer went broke

For nearly 4 many years the Santa Isabel property has been rising espresso and roasting it on its premises with machines powered by water and coal.

However manufacturing may fall this yr on the huge farm, which covers a steep mountain that’s nearly fully carpeted with espresso bushes.

Espresso pickers have develop into tougher to rent amid the coronavirus pandemic. Low costs for beans imply there may be not a lot cash to lure extra staff by providing greater wages.

“If we can’t get extra staff we may lose a few of our crop,” says Ángel García, the farm’s supervisor. “The beans will fall and decay on the bottom,” he defined, as a crew of about 50 staff made their manner up a slope lined in 6ft-tall (1.8m) bushes.

picture copyrightSimon Echavarria
picture captionÁngel García is among the managers at Santa Isabel, a farm with 900,000 espresso bushes

Santa Isabel – which has 900,000 espresso bushes – is certainly one of many farms within the Colombian province of Antioquia that’s fighting labour shortages this yr.

The province, house to town of Medellín, wants round 32,000 espresso pickers from different components of the nation every year to gather its harvest, which takes place between September and December.

However it presently has a deficit of seven,000 espresso pickers, in accordance with Colombia’s Nationwide Federation of Espresso Growers.

Comparable labour shortages affected espresso farms in Costa Rica earlier this yr.

Extra threat

Staff on the Santa Isabel farm say that fewer persons are displaying up as a result of the job has develop into riskier.

“This place has staff that come from many alternative locations,” mentioned Luis Giraldo, a 40-year-old espresso picker.

picture copyrightSimon Echavarria
picture captionLuis Giraldo says he can gather round 100kg of beans per day, which pays round $15

“Even in the event you attempt to keep away from contact with others, you actually cannot,” he says, pointing to a gaggle of a dozen staff who sit subsequent to one another, chatting after having breakfast. None of them wore facemasks.

Mr Giraldo’s spouse, Gloria Piedrahita, says she is glad to have a job. Her small clothes retailer in Medellín went broke earlier this yr. However she additionally acknowledges there was a threat of getting contaminated with coronavirus.

“We have now to sleep in dormitories right here,” she defined. “And never the entire staff are cautious.”

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To forestall outbreaks and make the job safer for espresso pickers, farms in Colombia have taken bio-security measures that embody including hand-washing stations and temperature checks.

A number of the bigger farms have additionally expanded their dormitories or added tents in order that their staff are extra spaced out, with their bunk beds now positioned two metres aside.

picture copyrightSimon Echavarria
picture captionStaff don’t all the time follow social distancing or put on facemasks throughout their breaks

However the measures haven’t attracted as many staff as farmers had hoped for, regardless that the unemployment charge in Colombia is about 50% greater than it was a yr in the past.

Empty vehicles

Mr García says that his farm normally hires 500 momentary staff to reap its espresso bushes in November, when beans are able to be picked. This yr he has solely been capable of get 200.

Chilly and wet climate has slowed down the tempo at which espresso beans mature in lots of components of Colombia this yr. That has helped Santa Isabel to stave off main losses. However the farm continues to be actively recruiting individuals, earlier than its beans fall to the bottom.

“We’re placing advertisements on the radio, we’re sending out a truck into city with a megaphone on it, providing to carry staff to the farm,” Mr García explains. “The truck usually comes again empty.”

José Álvaro Jaramillo, the Antioquia director for Colombia’s Espresso Growers Federation, says the labour shortages have been taking place for a number of years now – although to a lesser extent – as higher paying industries like freeway development and the unlawful coca crop lure rural staff away from the espresso fields.

Bodily demanding and little safety

Espresso pickers in Colombia are paid about $0.15 (£0.11) for each kilogram of beans they gather. On an excellent day an skilled espresso picker could make round $30 a day, gathering 200kg of beans.

picture copyrightSimon Echavarria
picture captionIn a daily yr, the farm hires round 500 momentary staff to do the bodily demanding work

It’s 3 times as a lot cash as what a employee on the nationwide minimal wage makes. However the job is bodily demanding and doesn’t present a set revenue or medical health insurance.

Fernando Morales de La Cruz, an skilled on the espresso trade who directs the Café for Change Initiative, says that labour shortages will proceed to be an issue till “the enterprise mannequin on which the worldwide espresso trade operates is modified”.

Mr Morales de la Cruz factors out that espresso presently sells for round $2.40/kg in world markets, or lower than what it was promoting for in 1983, when coffee-growing nations stopped imposing export quotas.

He says that just a few corporations – together with Starbucks and Nestle – are buying a lot of the espresso on this planet and retaining costs low because of their bargaining energy.

For wages to enhance considerably within the trade, wholesale costs for espresso beans must hover round $12/kg, Mr Morales de la Cruz, who can be a human rights activist, says. He argues that this massive hike in costs may very well be lined, partly, by charging customers a further 10 cents for each cup of espresso purchased at cafes or eating places.

‘We will not let the coronavirus scare us’

Nonetheless whilst growers wrestle with low costs for his or her espresso, there are individuals prepared to work for the modest wages on supply.

picture copyrightSimon Echavarria
picture captionRafael Avendaño wants the work to ship cash house to Venezuela

On the Santa Isabel farm most of the espresso pickers who turned out this yr are Venezuelan migrants, who must ship cash to relations at house. In Venezuela, the month-to-month minimal wage is presently value round $1.

“We will not let the coronavirus scare us” mentioned Rafael Avendaño, a 25-year-old Venezuelan employee who has been on the farm for a month.

He had been residing on Colombia’s Caribbean coast for 3 years working as a bike taxi driver, however the pandemic put him out of enterprise. “I am extra afraid of rolling down certainly one of these slopes than of the pandemic” he joked.

“For individuals like us the precedence is to work.”

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Associated Subjects

  • Colombia

  • International commerce
  • Espresso manufacturing



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